In recent years, there has been a tendency towards natural anomalies in the form of sudden temperature changes. Summer heat can reach fifty degrees in the sun during the day, and at the end of August at night the air temperature drops to +15. Plants, like humans, react to sudden changes. This is expressed in the form of a poor harvest. The solution to the problem is mulching.
Soil mulching, what it is, what means to use and how, we will try to explain in the article.
Mulching the soil is an agrotechnical technique that allows you to retain moisture in the root system of a plant, preventing the growth of weeds; the layer also fertilizes the soil. It looks like a shelter around the trunk, located at the base.
For shelter the following are used:
- Organic,
- Inorganic materials
The use of the former is associated with the use of natural waste obtained as a result of agricultural activities. For example, sawdust, straw or hay. The second is associated with the use of production items, rock materials.
There is another method - traditional, every gardener uses it, this is the usual loosening of the soil after watering or rain. By loosening, the soil becomes more airy, moisture nourishes the rhizome faster and the plant develops faster.
Organic mulching
Organic includes agricultural waste - peat, pine cones, tree shavings or bark, wood chips, eggshells, leaves, etc. Row covering helps plants survive the heat by lowering the soil temperature, and protects them from frost in winter.
Cover the seedlings, then it is possible to reduce the number of weeds around. Perennial weeds will germinate and can be cut back without allowing them to bloom at the same time. In appearance, such a site is not very tidy, but it will have increased resistance to negative factors.
If you see wheatgrass breaking through, it is better to get rid of it. When the garden is covered with straw, the remaining grains can periodically germinate and are also disposed of. They are easy to pull out by the roots; you will have to make a little effort.
Throughout the summer, the mulch decomposes, while enriching the soil with useful substances and microelements. The soil becomes airy and looser.
If you use pine needles as mulch, the soil can increase acidity. To avoid this, it is recommended to mix with hay.
Good results after using sunflower seed husks. The material has good throughput, does not cake, does not slide, and in summer it lowers the soil temperature.
But improperly applied mulch, or too thick a layer, can also cause harm, for example, becoming a “cozy home” for snails or slugs. The microclimate promotes the development of fungus.
Inorganic mulching
This group includes:
- Small stones
- Brick production waste
- Polymers
- Agrofibre
- Sackcloth
Gravel and brick chips are used more for decorative purposes. The benefits to plants are questionable, but the possible harm is obvious. Under the influence of moisture, the pebbles go deeper into the ground.
Often used to cover the entire garden. This way it acquires an aesthetically beautiful appearance and cleanliness. The gardener will not need to get rid of weeds. Drip irrigation tapes are placed under the layer, thus reducing the amount of physical effort of the gardener to a minimum. But is this really good for crops?
The main role of using inorganic material is to protect the soil from drying out in the heat and suppress the growth of weeds. This is what happens, but the overuse of polymers in the area only worsens fertility indicators. Soil that is completely closed does not breathe and aeration does not occur. Therefore, it is recommended to remove the cover and dig up after the end of the growing season.
Mulching methods
Methods are selected depending on the final goal. Fine-grained organic mulch is applied for fertilization and moisture. Film - helps to warm the soil and obtain an earlier harvest. If you remove it in time, the young growth will quickly take root and become stronger.
The beds are completely covered with agrofibre, growing vegetables and fruits on an industrial scale. It is difficult to imagine a strawberry field without such shelter; the need for weed removal and watering increases significantly. In such cases, you will need to worry about fertilizing the site in advance, and during the growth process, use foliar feeding of the bushes. When choosing agrofibre, keep in mind that dark colors are recommended. If the material is transparent or white, light will penetrate and weeds will continue to grow actively.
In summer cottages, it is not recommended to use inorganic mulch. But if you are already using it, it is better to put it away for the winter. Organic, it remains on the site all year round; in winter it rots and supplies the garden with organic compounds.
Mulching procedure rules
The procedure can be carried out twice a year – in autumn and spring. In the fall, after the harvest is complete, around mid-October. For the garden it is recommended to use tree bark, wood chips, nut shells and peat. For the garden - softer materials, for example, straw, sawdust, husks from sunflower seeds.
Before mulching the garden or winter crops, it is recommended:
- Get rid of old dead wood, carry out sanitary pruning of trees and remove excess
- Fertilize the plantings
- Carefully dig up and level the soil
- Water dry soil or mulch after heavy rains. Dry soil is not covered because the root system will not receive enough nutrient moisture.
Plantings in shady areas are covered with a thin layer, thinner than the rest. The area should be equal to the area of the crown of the tree or bush.
Mulching of garden crops
The procedure is carried out in the spring, after the earth has warmed up to +15 degrees. If done too early, the development of the plant will only slow down. Early crop intake will lead to wilting.
If you decide to mulch the bed during fruiting, it is recommended to do it after watering and loosening. After harvesting, summer mulch is dug into the soil. In the case when the area is not cultivated for the winter, the layer remains for the winter and is moved in the spring to allow the earth to warm up.
If winter in your region is mild and the soil does not freeze, then you can leave the mulch untouched and leave it for the next season. They carry out work to form it correctly.
Sprouted weeds should not be allowed to spread. Timely removal is the key to cleanliness. Thus, the beds will gradually be cleared of weeds, and weeding will be inappropriate. Plants will gain comfort, develop faster, and the harvest will delight you with abundance.
What mistakes can be made?
The first mistake is that the layer is too thick, which is especially harmful during active fruiting. It is possible that a healthy plant will begin to rot. With this method, the roots do not receive the required amount of oxygen and light.
There is absolutely no point in mulching dry soil. Especially in windy weather. The wind will simply carry the material all over the garden. In the spring, mulch remaining above the roots will only prevent the soil from warming up and slow down the development of the plant.
In the fall, they are applied only for cultivation, perhaps in the inter-row spaces, so moisture will accumulate, which is especially important in regions with little snow. To retain winter moisture in the soil, it is recommended to loosen it after collecting the shelter. But such an action is possible if the soil is dry and there is no frost.
The maintenance of a personal plot where berries or vegetables are grown must necessarily include measures to protect and nourish the plants. Moreover, if the garden is small or the country house farming is carried out far from the city, then it is advisable to use the mulch obtained with your own hands for this purpose. It won’t be difficult to figure out what mulch is and where to get it, since it is literally prepared from scrap materials. The only point that should be taken into account before starting to prepare this fertilizer is the type of plant and the effect that mulching should provide.
What is mulch?
Weeds, leaves, old sawdust, straw, husks, compost and other materials, waste, and processed products can be used to create mulch. The main condition is to obtain a set of nutrients from these raw materials. In addition, to understand what mulch is and where to get it at home, you can turn to ordinary manure. If you put it in a specially prepared place in the fall, then by spring it will be in optimal condition for use in mulching. Next, you need to scatter it on the soil surface and wait until the worms “drag” it into the bowels of the earth. This is how humus is distributed at the soil level where it is located. They do the same with other types of mulch - the scheme is simple: spread the fertilizer over the beds, if possible, fence this place with borders and wait until the organic matter produces a result in the form of a rich harvest.
The positive effects of mulch
The mulch cover provides the soil layer with the necessary supply of beneficial microorganisms. During the decomposition of this layer, the mineralization of nutrients accelerates and the efficiency of their absorption by plants increases. That is, the definition of what mulch is in the garden can have two interpretations. On the one hand, this is a technical operation to protect and nourish the soil layer, and on the other hand, it is a necessary supplement for growth and development. The decomposition of mulched organic matter is carried out directly in the soil layer, as a result of which all valuable microelements reach their goal and do not die in vain. In some cases, the presence of a cover with mulch eliminates the need to loosen the soil, since the root system of plants receives an optimal supply of oxygen due to the absence of a dense crust on the surface.
Dark or light?
As is known, the intensity of heat and light absorption is to a large extent determined by the color of the object. Since the interaction of the soil layer with the sun is one of the most important parameters that determine its fertility, it is worth thinking about the color of the mulch that will cover the bed. In particular, this will allow regulating the thermal regime of the soil. And again the question arises: what is mulch and where to get it to get the right color? For light material, you can use sawdust and straw, and for dark material, humus and foliage. But something else is important. You must first correctly determine what the soil needs at the moment, since thermoregulation by mulching can play both a positive and negative role. For example, a dark cover will ensure it retains heat, and a light cover will minimize the entry of sunlight, which will reduce the likelihood of overheating of the soil.
Freshly cut grass mulch
Freshly cut grass is the most affordable material that both summer residents and gardeners can easily find. The problem with the question of what mulch is and where to get it will disappear by itself, since it can be prepared from lupine, alfalfa, mustard, nettle and pea stalks. That is, a set of quite common herbs that grow in almost all regions of Russia. The composition will be more effective if everything without exception is included in it - the soil will be enriched with micronutrients of different groups, which will improve the structure of the fertile layer and vegetables. In addition, mulch from the herbs described above helps eliminate pests. For example, young nettle stems scattered along the rows will protect strawberries from snails. Chrysanthemum will help in the fight against mole crickets, and marigolds with marigolds will repel nematodes.
Mulching with compost
Compost itself is a good way to structure the soil and supply vegetation with useful substances. It contains living microorganisms that destroy the soil layer. This is another example for those who want to understand what mulch is. The photo below illustrates mulching with compost.
Such cover becomes a barrier not only for pests, but also prevents plant diseases. Compost mulch may only be 2-3 cm thick, but this layer is enough to provide plant protection that no chemical fungicide can match. For some varieties, there are direct indications from specialists for the use of mulching with compost - these, for example, include roses and tomatoes that are susceptible to diseases.
Wood chip mulch
This material is suitable as a product intended for perennial flowers. If you have problems finding a place to get mulch of this type, and you don’t have your own wood chips, you can replace it with bark. One way or another, the finished material will have a beneficial effect on the protective qualities of the soil, suppress the development of weeds and retain water. By the way, this is the most durable cover among all analogues. Wood chip mulch can retain its original properties throughout the year.
But there are also restrictions on the use of this mulching product. Wood chips should not be used if they give off a vinegar or acidic odor. In such conditions, the plant may die after just a couple of hours. The presence of such a pungent odor is due to the fact that acetic acid contained in wood chips is released abundantly during the process of decay without access to oxygen. When deciding where to get mulch in the spring, you should carefully look at other wood materials. As a last resort, you can use the branches of coniferous trees, which are no less effective and, depending on the plant, can double the yield.
Mulch based on covering material
Mulching is often performed using household film or woven materials. By covering the bed with such a covering, you can retain moisture, suppress weeds and loosen the soil. Now we should answer the question: what is mulch and where to get it to form such a covering? The cover can consist of cardboard, roofing felt and tar - the main thing is that the material does not transmit light.
The advantages of this mulching method include practicality and durability. Depending on the characteristics, this layer can last for several years. But there is also a serious disadvantage. Unlike humus, wood chips and compost, such shelter will not provide nutrition. As much as possible, optimal regulation of moisture and temperature on the soil surface, as well as physical protection of the plant, can be achieved.
Mulching is covering the soil surface with a layer of mulch in order to protect it from weathering and enrich its mineral composition, as a result of its colonization with a large number of agronomically effective microorganisms.
Mulch is any material with which we cover the soil. Mulch can be organic or inorganic. Bark, grass, wood chips, humus, sawdust, straw, paper, cardboard, nut shells, leaf and pine litter, compost, silage, and cake are used as organic mulch.
Inorganic mulch includes films and nonwoven materials, sand, crushed stone, screenings, and expanded clay.
Organic mulch compensates for the removal of nutrients, micro and macroelements from the soil by the crop. And most importantly, with mulch we introduce carbon compounds into the soil, which is the building material of both the plants themselves and future fruits.
How mulching is beneficial for the soil and plants.
Mulching the soil allows you to get rid of weeds in the garden. Reduce the amount of watering, because moisture retention under a layer of mulch is much higher. This is very important during dry periods of the year.
In addition, mulching the soil cools the root zone of plants and allows the suction roots of the plant to consume moisture from the soil at the optimal temperature.
The same cannot be said about a plant that is watered in unmulched soil. It is forced to consume very warm moisture from the soil. And this does not contribute to optimal cooling of the plant during the hot period.
Under a layer of mulch, the soil structure improves. The soil becomes looser, more airy, a large number of soil microorganisms settle in it and, accordingly, the biological activity of the soil increases. Which will definitely have a beneficial effect on your future harvests.
Mulching locks nutrients in the soil, preventing them from leaching and weathering. In addition, thanks to mulch, water vapor condenses from the air.
Mulch stimulates the growth of adventitious roots, because the soil under the mulch is not covered with a crust and air flows to the roots constantly, and not only after loosening the beds.
In addition, a layer of mulch provides a temperature regime favorable for plants. This also prevents deep freezing of the soil in winter. In early spring, beds mulched with leaf litter before winter can be quickly sown with cold-resistant green manures such as winter and spring rapeseed, rye, oats, mustard, and phacelia by removing a layer of leaf mulch.
But don’t rush to put the leaf litter that has served its purpose into the compost; we will need it later. When we lack green grass for mulching in the summer. Due to its fading under the southern scorching sun.
The mulch layer is an obstacle to the development of fungal diseases, preventing the dispersal of spores of late blight, mildioidium and other fungi. Under the mulch, Trichoderma and Bacillus subtilis rapidly grow, with which the causative agents of most fungal diseases are not very friendly.
Mulching material prevents soil from splashing onto plant leaves when watering. This provides additional protection against traditional fungal diseases. Which grow wildly in gardens by mid-summer.
What needs to be done before mulching.
Before you start mulching, you need to weed out the weeds and loosen the soil. Mulch is spread on the surface of the loosened soil on which vegetables are grown.
The mulch should not adhere closely to the trunk or root collar. Firstly, this can lead to fungal diseases, and as a result, plant rotting.
The mulch layer should be 5 cm, but if the soil on your site is clayey, then the mulch layer at first should be no more than 2 cm. This is necessary to prevent the plants from getting wet. Then, after a few years, when the soil is enriched with humus due to mulching, the thickness of the mulch layer can be increased.
To give impetus to the rapid development of soil microbiota under a layer of mulch, it is necessary to place bokashi under the mulch. Bokashi is bran with agronomically effective microorganisms populated on it.
They need to be placed there immediately before covering with a layer of mulch. Otherwise, they will quickly die in the open sun.
Mulching with grass and straw.
Grass and straw are the most effective mulching materials. Green grass contains a lot of nitrogen and such mulch does not remove nitrogen from the soil. Which is inevitably consumed by soil microorganisms during the decomposition of green mulch into organic compounds beneficial to plants. Which is very important on infertile soils.
Straw is an excellent mulching material that retains heat in the soil. Straw is rich in carbon but low in nitrogen at only 0.5%. This leads to little difficulty when using unprepared straw for mulching infertile soils.
Fertility and productivity are really falling. But this is only in the year of mulching and the next year. But then the soil fertility in the areas mulched with straw improves irrevocably. That the straw did not remove useful macroelements from the soil even in the first year of use, the straw must be well chopped and enriched with nitrogen.
In order for the layer of mulch at the edges of the beds to be as thick as in the middle, it is convenient to limit the edges of the beds with wooden sides. Fastening the walls together with boards. Placed between pegs driven into the soil.
Mulching the soil with cardboard.
Because of overseas videos about organic farming and the cultivation of virgin land overgrown with weeds using cardboard. Our compatriots have developed a genuine interest in using this material to mulch the soil in their gardens.
In my opinion, mulching the soil with cardboard is only suitable for use in areas where people rarely set foot, but not in row-spacings. Because, firstly, it is not aesthetically pleasing. It is much more pleasing to the eye to look at row-spacings covered with grass or straw. Secondly, dry cardboard always lifts up and you can accidentally trip over it and fall.
But there is one undeniable advantage of this mulching material. If it is humid enough, worms like to settle under it. Worms simply love cardboard; it becomes both home and food for them at the same time. And if any of you wanted to build such a house for worms in your garden, then it will look something like this.
Therefore, I recommend covering row spacing or areas free from planting with cardboard in several layers and pressing the sides of the cardboard sheets. In the absence of natural moisture in the cardboard in the form of rain, it is advisable to spill it with a hose.
It is better to use corrugated cardboard for mulching the soil. There is an air gap there, which has a beneficial effect on the aerobic processes that occur during the decomposition of cardboard.
Woodchip mulch.
This is one of the materials that is easier to buy than to prepare yourself. Of course, wood chips will not last forever; they will have to be renewed periodically, but not often. Most often, such mulch is enough for two to three seasons.
Today you can find a wide variety of wood chips in the store. A skilled designer will fit any “cheerful” color into the landscape.
But if you are not a designer, then it is best to choose wood chips in natural colors: green, brown and yellow, for decorating flower beds.
When buying wood chips, pay attention to how they were painted. Natural dyes entering the soil will not harm it. But artificial ones will harm the soil microflora.
Another disadvantage of wood chips is that it draws nitrogen from the soil. Therefore, it is better to lay it out in the tree trunks of mature trees and shrubs. And for young people it is worth putting a layer of compost or humus under the mulch.
The longevity of the mulch is affected by the type of tree it was made from. Coniferous trees last longer than hardwoods. But at the same time, pine chips acidify the soil. Mulch from linden or birch will rot faster, but is also suitable for any plants.
To help the soil dry out faster in the spring, the wood chips are raked. Then it can be washed, disinfected and, after drying, used again.
What mistakes are possible when mulching the soil?
- They mulched it very early.
The planted seedlings are mulched immediately after planting. And sowing seeds only after the plants have risen and grown by 10 cm. Otherwise, the sprouts will not be able to break through the layer of mulch.
- The mulch was too thin.
It is necessary to lay a layer of mulch on the soil no thinner than 3 cm, normally 5–7 cm. The bottom layer must be moistened. Then the mulch will not fly away from the garden bed. And it becomes a medium for the development of biocenosis on the surface of the beds. In addition, a thin layer of mulch does not inhibit the growth of weeds.
- The wind blew away all the mulch from the beds.
When you mulch already raised plantings, the risk that the mulch will be carried away by the wind will be minimal. Since the plants themselves will stop the mulch from blowing it away from the beds.
If you plan to mulch the beds when it rains, then the mulch moistened and compacted by the rain will no longer be blown away from the bed by the winds. But if rain is not expected, then you yourself can water the newly mulched plantings.
Soil mulching is an agrotechnical measure, the implementation of which guarantees better development of vegetable crops, increased productivity, reduced risk of plant infection with infectious diseases, as a result of reduced evaporation of liquid from the soil and limited weed growth. Material for soil mulching can be of organic or inorganic origin. This article is all about the advantages and disadvantages of mulching.
A bed of strawberries covered with straw.
Mulching is an activity aimed at preserving moisture in the soil and protecting beds from pests and weeds. To reduce the growth of weeds, mulch the row spaces between vegetable beds and fruit trees with various materials. It is difficult for weeds to grow through the thickness of the mulch material; in addition, the protective layer makes it difficult for them to access sunlight, without which weeds cannot develop favorably.
Mulching materials spread over the surface of vegetable beds successfully protect the soil from erosion and prevent the formation of a hard crust on the soil surface, which can significantly improve the aeration of the root system of vegetable crops.
Thanks to mulching, the number of waterings of vegetables and berry bushes is reduced, allowing gardeners to save water and effort. Under the protective layer covering the soil in the beds, bacteria and small insects multiply, improving the structure of the soil, creating favorable conditions for the reproduction of earthworms, whose vital activity helps to increase the air flow to the roots of vegetable plants.
In the presence of a mulch layer on the beds, vegetables develop a powerful root system, which has a beneficial effect on increasing productivity.
Mulching methods
To mulch beds, organic and inorganic materials are used, which are distributed over the soil surface in vegetable and berry beds; the combined use of different types of mulch is allowed.
Inorganic materials for protecting beds include: crushed stone, granite and marble chips, pebbles, gravel, film covering materials.
Hay, mown grass, eggshells, green manure, leaf litter, pine needles, nut shells, crushed bark, pine cones, compost, peat - this is not a complete list of materials of organic origin that are often used for mulching beds. Unusual methods of covering the soil surface, for example, mulching the soil with newspapers, can also be considered this type of protection.
When choosing a mulching method, it is necessary to take into account soil type and climatic factors. Each type of soil surface protection has its own positive and negative sides; it is worth choosing the most suitable mulching materials for a particular vegetable crop.
Cones are an ideal material; they are easy to collect in the forest.
To achieve good results, you should follow some recommendations that will allow you to carry out high-quality mulching of beds:
- It is best to start mulching garden beds in the spring, when the soil is sufficiently warmed up but has not yet lost moisture.
- If the soil is dry, before laying the mulch layer, it is important to moisten it - do this 1-2 days before covering the soil, having first removed debris and dried plants from the surface of the ridges.
- The thickness of the organic mulch layer is taken based on the soils lying on the site.
- It is not recommended to cover heavy soils with a layer of more than 2-5 cm. Light soils can be mulched with a layer of material up to 8 cm thick.
- It is not allowed to lay mulch near the branches of bushes and tree trunks; it is necessary to leave some distance between the plants and the layer of protective material.
- When mulching the trunk circles of trees and shrubs, you should follow the following rule: the radius for shrubs is at least 0.4 - 0.5 m, for trees the mulching radius is at least 0.7 m.
- You can use mulch throughout the season; when digging the beds in the fall, organic mulch is embedded in the soil.
Inorganic materials
The berries in such a bed with a film coating remain whole and clean.
Inorganic materials cannot decompose and therefore do not add nutrients to the soil. Crushed stone and gravel, as well as marble chips, have a solid structure, and therefore are resistant to negative factors (low temperature, heat, high humidity). Colored stone chips serve as an additional decoration for flower beds, allowing you to decorate the garden in the same style.
Mulching the soil with film is carried out using a certain technology, which is worth talking about in more detail. It is not recommended to choose a transparent film to create a protective layer; such mulch is not capable of suppressing the development of weeds. Sunlight freely penetrates through transparent film materials, which stimulates seed germination, and moisture and nutritious soil only aggravate the clogging of the beds with weed seedlings.
Film
The bed is prepared for planting seedlings.
Mulching film is usually made of black polyethylene; sometimes colored opaque versions of film coatings are used.
Before mulching, the bed should be dug up, leveled, covered with a thin layer of straw or sawdust, and then pieces of cut film should be placed on top. Holes are cut in the film covering at regular intervals, moistening is carried out, and then seedlings are planted in the slots. Holes in the material allow unhindered watering of the beds and facilitate the application of fertilizers directly under each plant.
Film for mulching the soil is used when growing strawberries, which perfectly helps preserve the quality of ripened berries - strawberries do not come into contact with wet soil, so the crop gets wet and rots. Berries are more reliably protected from pests. Good results can be achieved by mulching beds with melons, cucumbers, and ornamental flowering crops (roses).
A dark film covering on the beds helps reduce moisture evaporation, protects against temperature changes, and prevents soil compaction and crust formation.
In areas with hot climates, black film overheats greatly, which can cause polyethylene to decompose. To protect the film from heat and exposure to ultraviolet rays, its surface is covered with a layer of straw or hay.
Organic mulch
Decorative wood chips, straw and hay are ideal materials for covering beds.
Organic mulch has undoubted advantages - wood chips, bark, pine cones, leaves, when rotting, saturate the soil with nutrients. During autumn digging, these materials can significantly improve the soil structure.
Organic materials for covering the soil in beds and tree trunks very often solve a decorative problem - they serve for decorative design of the site. For these purposes, colored wood chips are successfully used to cover flower beds and paths.
The material is absolutely safe, decomposes without residue over time, and serves as a nutrient medium for the development of plants.
Compost
One of the most nutritious mulching products is brown compost, which can be prepared from plant residues, straw, sawdust, leaf litter, ash from burning cut trees, as well as household waste and a small percentage of bird droppings and manure.
Compost can be prepared directly in the garden, for which all the ingredients are mixed in a specially dug hole (you can leave the compost to mature in the open air, collecting it in a heap). The composition is completely ready in 4-5 years, but this is a very long time to obtain compost.
You can make compost mulch using the hot method somewhat faster. To do this, you will need to fulfill several conditions:
- Prepare fresh greens (for example, weeds), as well as dry tops of garden plants, leaves, shavings, and household waste.
- In this recipe it is necessary to use manure, green manure, and California worms, which will speed up the composting process of the composition.
- To supply the ripening compost with oxygen, it is necessary to periodically stir the mass with a pitchfork, as well as moisten it if the ingredients dry out.
- It will be necessary to maintain a sufficiently high temperature (from 65 to 85C) so that the mass can ripen in six months.
- Using special containers for composting will allow you to prepare compost in 1 month.
The advantages of using compost are undeniable - plants receive nutrition and protection. When covering beds in winter, perennial crops are reliably protected from frost by a layer of compost.
The disadvantage of this composition is the danger of infecting the garden with weeds and diseases, especially if the mass preparation technology is not followed.
Peat
Peat chips to protect tree trunks.
Peat soil is ideal for mulching the garden, because its natural composition contains absolutely no harmful substances and is an environmentally friendly product. However, it is worth remembering that peat has high acidity, which, when used to mulch beds, can change the acid-base balance and lead to acidification of the soil.
Peat chips can be used to mulch beds with plants that prefer soils with high acidity.
Natural materials do an excellent job of protecting garden beds. The material is breathable, lightweight, and promotes rapid air access to plant roots. When choosing a method for mulching a garden or vegetable garden, you should carefully consider the option of using this or that material.
Mulching with grass is an agrotechnical measure with the help of which more favorable conditions are created for plants and soil.
However, its effectiveness depends on many factors.
After all, improper preparation of collected vegetation, carried out without taking into account its species and the general situation on the site, can not only block the entire beneficial effect, but also cause significant harm.
Therefore, it is very important to understand not only the general principles of mulching, but also the processes that occur in the soil and the mulching layer.
From this article you will learn:
- how and from what to make such mulch with your own hands;
- how and with what to chop/chop grass;
- Is it possible to mulch with grass, including lawn grass, cucumbers, cabbage, peppers, potatoes, put fresh grass under tomatoes, strawberries, raspberries, roses and other crops in greenhouses and open ground;
- about the benefits of mulch from mowed grass for plants, and under what conditions it can cause harm;
- how to mulch beds correctly;
- about hot grass for mulching - what it is, pros and cons, how to use it.
To answer this question, it is necessary to understand how grass that is mowed or separated from its roots in any other way affects the soil and plants.
Once on the surface of the soil, such vegetation reduces moisture loss caused by evaporation, and also makes the life of snails and slugs very difficult, that is, it performs the same functions as mulch made from any other materials.
In addition, it protects plant roots from summer heat and winter frost, although it is less effective than shavings.
That is, any healthy vegetation separated from the roots is suitable for use as mulch, however, in some cases, preliminary preparation of the material will be required.
Weeds
Despite the fact that weeds are also grass, the situation with them is somewhat different, because they are for mulching suitable only until mature seeds appear. If they have already produced seeds, then trying to use them for this agricultural activity will only lead to their rapid spread throughout the site.
However, even they can be used as mulch if they are first subjected to liquid composting, which we talked about.
The advantage of liquid composting is that the aqueous medium dramatically increases activity, so they break down organic matter faster and more efficiently.
This means that after 3–6 weeks most of the seeds will lose their viability and will not pose a threat to cultivated plants. In addition, a by-product of such preparation is a liquid fertilizer, which can be used as a good complex fertilizer.
Depending on the degree of decay, it can either fill the soil with humic substances (humates), accelerating the development of plants, or accelerate the process of soil regeneration, attracting worms that will process all organic remains and loosen the soil.
The disadvantage of such preparation is the deterioration of the protective properties of mulch in relation to summer heat and winter frosts, however This problem can be compensated for by increasing the thickness of the mulch layer.
In addition, the more rotted the starting material is during liquid composting, the less effective it is at attracting worms, since most organic matter has already been fermented and processed into intermediate or final products.
Therefore, such mulch has less effect on the process of soil regeneration, but quickly turns into humic substances, which are natural nutrition for plant roots.
Plants with diseases
A plant affected by some kind of disease is a source of infection even after it is separated from the root as a result of uprooting or weeding.
Moreover, even rotting under natural conditions does not always destroy pathogens.
That's why first you need to determine the type of disease, and then compare it with the cultivated plants located on the site.
If this type of disease does not pose a threat to plants on the site, then such grass can be used for mulching. If cultivated plants are susceptible to this disease, then such grass cannot be mulched even after it has completely rotted, including using liquid methods.
Plants affected by pests
Garden and vegetable pests often leave eggs or larvae on the grass, and when this happens, the vegetation over a fairly large area is affected.
Such grass cannot be used for mulching even after rotting in a barrel, because the larvae and eggs of many pests are very tenacious, so they remain viable even after exposure to bacterial enzymes.
If such grass is used for mulching, then the grown pests will move on to the cultivated vegetation and greatly harm it.
Preliminary preparation of collected green mass
For mulching, grass is used in the following states of aggregation:
- fresh;
- dry;
- partially rotted.
Fresh
If you plan to use freshly cut grass as mulch, then no preparation is required - it is immediately laid out around the site.
This material contains the maximum amount of nitrogen, so its consumption by humus-forming bacteria compensates for the excess of this material and after mulching the soil does not lose nitrogen.
The disadvantage of this method is the strong toxic effect on cultivated plants, which is stronger the less compatible the plants are.
Therefore, for fresh mulching Green manure is best suited, which, after ripening, are cut or trampled so that they die and begin to rot.
Partially rotten
To obtain partially rotted material, the collected vegetation is placed in a composter or barrel for the time necessary for the rotting to reach the required level.
By waiting for one or another stage of decay, both the mechanical properties of the mulch and its attractiveness to worms are regulated, this makes it possible to obtain mulch that is better suited to a specific situation than other materials.
The advantage of partially rotted mulch is its high content of transition substances, due to which bacteria produce humates much faster than in fresh grass, and there are still quite a lot of substances attracting worms in such material.
Dry
To dry, the vegetation is collected in stacks and left in a well-ventilated and lit area, then, when the humidity drops to the required level, it is used for mulching.
If it needs to be stored until spring, then the dry green mass is placed in a closed, well-ventilated and insulated room. This material contains less nitrogen, so in spring and autumn the area mulched with it must be fertilized with nitrogen-containing preparations.
In addition, dried vegetation much less toxic than fresh, so for mulching you can even use grass that is usually incompatible with the cultivated plants located on the site.
The main advantage of dried grass is that it can be mulched even in early spring, when fresh grass is not yet available. The main thing is not to lay it close to cultivated plants.
At the same time, dry mulch retains the attractiveness characteristic of fresh vegetation for worms, due to which its introduction into the area leads to an increase in their number, which means increases the efficiency of regeneration processes soil.
It is also more effective than fresh grass if it is necessary to protect plant roots from heat or frost. The only downside is that violation of drying and storage conditions can lead to mold or rotting, which will negatively affect the effectiveness of the mulch.
How to cook it yourself?
In order to prepare the collected vegetation for use as mulch, it is necessary to chop it using any of the devices that we talked about in.
This operation is not needed only when the average length of the cut fragments does not exceed 10 cm, that is, the grass was collected from a lawn that is regularly mowed. If the material is obtained as a result of weeding or pulling out weeds, then grinding is always necessary.
Then collected vegetation is dried or composted to bring it to the required state. The choice of the required state and the method of bringing the plant mass to it depends on the purposes of mulching.
Fresh and dry material is used if mulching is carried out for:
- reducing water loss due to evaporation;
- weed and pest control;
- protection from heat and cold.
If the mulch should quickly affect the structure of the soil, as well as fill it with nutrients, or if you need to lay it close to the plants, it is better to use partly rotted in a barrel vegetation.
If, in addition to all these effects, mulch must compensate for the microelements spent on plant development, then it is better to take grass composted with the addition of manure and other components. Read more about this type of grass preparation.
What can you mulch with?
All vegetation suitable for mulching can be divided into:
- lawn;
- meadow (forbs);
- weeds.
Lawn grass has a beautiful appearance and poor vitality, so without lawn care it will quickly give way to more tenacious forbs or weeds.
In addition, seeds of lawn vegetation germinate well only in specially prepared conditions, therefore probability of spread of this species vegetation through mulching equal to zero.
Forbs, that is, any types of grass that grow in meadows or fields, and also often appear in the garden or vegetable garden, are much more viable than lawn grass or even most cultivated plants.
Therefore, vegetation mowed after the seeds appear, even if they are not yet ripe, can be used for mulching only after partial or complete rotting in a barrel.
Weeds are the most viable plants that take over living space from any other plants and easily choke out lawn grass and cultivated plantings.
That's why after the appearance of even immature seeds, weeds should not be used for mulching, unless after complete rotting in a barrel or composter.
But even after such treatment, there remains a fairly high probability of their spreading throughout the garden.
In addition, weeds that have been torn out of the ground along with their roots cannot be used for mulching, because even after rotting they remain viable and, once in fertile soil, they will immediately begin to take over the territory, suppressing other plants and depriving them of nutrition.
Lawn
Lawn grass does not contain weed seeds, so mulch made from it is safe for any plants. In addition, after mowing the lawn, the roots of the grass remain in the ground, so even theoretically it will not be able to begin to take over the living space of other plants.
This is especially important in cases where the lawns, for some reason, were planted not with special plants, but with forbs, trying to create a more natural appearance of the area.
In addition, lawns are mowed regularly, otherwise their appearance becomes noticeably worse, so the length of the mowed vegetation is optimal and can be used for mulching even without prior chopping.
Therefore, freshly cut grass from a lawn mower can be used to mulch any garden and vegetable crops, but its use most effective where plants are planted to improve the appearance of the area, and not for the sake of growing fruits.
It is not suitable for mulching any fruit plants (such as tomatoes, peppers, strawberries and others), but if, apart from the grass from the lawn mower, there is nothing to mulch them with, then after laying the mulch layer it is necessary to water it with preparations containing microelements.
Forbs
Forbs differ from lawn grass in the variety of species, so the mulch made from it contains much more microelements, which means it is better suited for fruiting plant species.
N most effective forbs mowed during the period of active flowering, because it is then that plants extract a maximum of microelements from the soil, which then return to the ground with fallen petals.
If this material is obtained not as a result of mowing, but after processing the area with a walk-behind tractor, then it can be used for mulching only those areas where it is planned to plant forbs.
The use of such mulch in areas planted with cultivated plants can lead to the fact that the surviving roots will reach the ground and the area will quickly be taken over by forbs, which are noticeably more vital.
Weeds
Weeds that are freshly cut, pulled out, or left after weeding cannot be used at all for mulching without drying or rotting, because several days after separation from the root and several years after separation of the root from the ground, weeds can still take new roots.
Therefore, weeds that are mowed or cut down as a result of weeding can be used only after rotting, and the vegetation that has been pulled out by the roots cannot be used even after rotting.
After all, even a small part of the root that survived during decay, once in the ground, will quickly give new roots, after which the weed will begin to take over the area, drowning out the cultivated plants and depriving them of nutrition.
In the open ground
The soil is mulched for the first time after the height of the young plants exceeds 5 cm. At this age, the plants do not yet have a strong trunk, which means that care must be taken when laying mulch around them.
Therefore, all the mulching material is first laid out around the trunk, then the space between the plants is filled. Layer thickness 1–3 cm. In addition, there should be at least 2 cm of space between the lower leaves and the mulch, otherwise the leaves may get sick from contact with rotting grass.
For the first mulching, it is necessary to use partially rotted lawn grass or forbs that have lain in a composter or compost heap for at least a year.
Moreover the greatest effect will be achieved by using compost, which includes or other components.
If you use fresh vegetation, then there is a high probability of burns on cultivated species caused by enzymes released by bacteria.
The next mulching is carried out at intervals of 3–6 weeks, and the more often this activity is performed, the thinner the new mulching layer should be.
After laying each new layer cultivated rocks are watered with a solution that includes ash and any nitrogen fertilizers, including feeding from manure or droppings, which we talked about. Nitrogen fertilizer compensates for the nitrogen that bacteria actively consume, and ash neutralizes soil acidification.
If the planted plants need to be hilled up, then mulch is applied on the same day or a few days earlier, thanks to this the soil will cover part of the grass and speed up its rotting, which means that the plants will quickly receive additional nutrition.
This use of grass does not reduce the effectiveness of mulching, because one of the main objectives of this action is to reduce moisture loss due to evaporation from the soil surface.
If after hilling it is necessary to protect the plant from slugs, then The mulching material is divided into 2 parts, one is laid before hilling, and the other after.
In the greenhouse
The general principles for using mulch from cut grass for tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and other crops in a greenhouse are the same as in open ground.
In this regard, the differences relate only to the method of preparation and the condition of the material.
When any fresh grass, including that from a lawn mower, rots, the bacteria release a lot of carbon dioxide, so the amount of carbon dioxide in the greenhouse or is constantly growing, which can pose a threat to anyone who will be working inside for a long time.
To reduce carbon dioxide emissions, it is necessary to use partially or completely rotted vegetation, which was kept in a compost pit or composter for at least a year.
However, before using even such mulch, it is necessary to check the operation of ventilation, without which the proportion of carbon dioxide will constantly increase.
in autumn
The main purpose of autumn mulching is to restore soil structure and replenishment of nutrients spent on plant development and microelements.
Since worms are the most important participants in the process of soil restoration, autumn mulching should attract them to the site as much as possible and provide them with sufficient food.
Any fresh or dry vegetation is suitable for this, with the exception of weeds that have retained at least a small piece of root. The prepared material is scattered over the area in a layer 2–5 cm thick, then the area is plowed and disked.
No plowing or disking such mulching will not be effective enough, and some of the thickest stems will not rot until spring. Small areas, instead of plowing and disking, are first treated with a walk-behind tractor and then leveled with a rake.
Another way to accelerate decay is to treat the mulch with bacterial preparations, which can be purchased at most stores selling goods for gardeners and gardeners.
These drugs will not affect the attractiveness of worms and will speed up decay., due to which by sowing the mulch will completely turn into humus and significantly improve the structure of the soil, as well as fill it with nutrients and microelements.
You can also reduce the labor intensity of the process by mulching with partially rotted compost, which has lain in a composter or heap for at least six months.
Moreover compost should contain, including fruit or vegetable trimmings that contain enough complex organic matter to effectively attract worms even after sitting in the composter for so long.
The nuances of using mulch for different crops
Despite the fact that the general principles of preparing and using grass as mulch are the same, there are nuances that will help you do this more efficiently, which will have a beneficial effect on the yield and quality of the fruit.
However, it is necessary to understand that the maximum effectiveness of this measure will be achieved only when mulching is part of the soil fertilization and regeneration system.
Moreover, all actions of this system must necessarily complement and not duplicate each other.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are very heat-loving plants, so the first mulch layer on open ground need to be laid after the ground has warmed up well, that is, when the daytime temperature exceeds +20 degrees and lasts for at least a week.
If tomatoes are planted in a greenhouse, then mulching the soil can be done after the length of the tomato stem exceeds 5 cm.
Before fruit ovaries appear, compost that has been stored for at least a year should be used as mulch.
Wherein it must contain green manure tomatoes, that is:
- rye;
- lupine;
- oats;
- rape;
- white mustard;
- alfalfa;
- clover.
After the fruit buds appear, you can use dried lawn grass or dried forbs, that is, one that has lain in the sun for 1–2 weeks after mowing (however, it is better to use partially rotted compost), as well as completely rotted weeds without seeds.
After harvesting, the tomato stems are trampled, then green manure is planted. If it is not possible to plant green manure, then the entire area is covered with a layer of freshly cut green mulch, including any grass and weeds without seeds.
Then the area is sprinkled with a small amount of manure and lime, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilizers and watered.
cucumbers
The first mulching should be done after the cucumbers have real leaves and grow a little.
Moreover, only compost that has spent at least 2/3 of the time required for complete rotting in a composter or pit can be used as a mulching material.
The next layer is laid after the fruit ovaries appear, and the third layer after the fruits acquire a clear shape. It is best to use partially rotted compost., however, you can get by with slightly dried lawn grass or forbs, sprinkling them with ash on top and watering them with properly diluted liquid fertilizer.
After harvesting, the stems and leaves of the cucumbers are trampled down, then green manure is planted (the same as for tomatoes), and after the green manure has ripened, they are also trampled down and mulched with any vegetation, except weeds with seeds, or partially rotted compost.
To speed up decay, the mulch layer is sprinkled with ash and watered with an aqueous solution of bacterial preparations.
Strawberry
Strawberries are a perennial plant, so completely different technology and materials are used to mulch them. The best mulching material for strawberries is considered partially rotted compost containing green manure from this plant, that is:
- legumes;
- rape;
- dill;
- fennel;
- marigold;
- rye.
Sequencing
Immediately after the snow melts around each plant, the winter mulch is raked to the sides, clearing a circle with a radius of 7–10 cm, this is necessary so that the soil warms up faster.
At the same time serve every strawberry bush, that is, they remove diseased and excess tendrils, but if there is a suspicion that the roots of the plant did not survive the winter, then they remove it entirely, and in its place they plant and pinch one of the tendrils of the nearest bush.
After the flower ovaries appear, the old mulch is returned to its place, then the soil is carefully loosened to a depth of 1–2 cm, without getting close to the roots of the bushes. Then the first mulching is carried out, and the layer thickness should not exceed 1 cm.
After the first berries have formed, another mulch layer of the same thickness is laid. The third mulch layer is laid while the berries are ripening., which will greatly reduce their watering, which means the berries will be sweeter and can be stored noticeably longer.
After harvesting, regular maintenance is carried out, that is, diseased tendrils or plants are removed, and weeds that have made their way through the mulch are pulled out. Excess tendrils, as well as healthy leaves, can be composted.
However, any diseased parts of plants must be destroyed, because rotting is poorly suited for destroying pathogens. Also it is necessary to destroy plants affected by pests or their parts.
From spring to autumn, it is advisable to grow green manure on a designated area, and it is necessary to collect their green mass before the fruits form and the trunks become coarser.
As it ripens, the green mass of green manure is cut off and added to the compost, making it as balanced as possible and better suited for mulching strawberries than fresh grass.
Autumn features
In autumn, the soil is loosened, then covered with a layer of mulch 3–5 cm thick, which will protect the roots of plants from frost, and use only partially rotted compost.
If you mulch the area with fresh grass, there is a high probability that the mustache will be damaged by enzymes released by bacteria.
This mulching procedure allows you to grow strawberries in one place without depleting the soil for 5–7 years, whereas even with the use of modern fertilizers, the maximum period of effective fruiting in one place does not exceed 2–3 years.
To prepare a new area for transplanting strawberries, it in summer or early autumn they are planted with green manure, and when they have gained sufficient green mass, they are trampled down and mulched with partially rotted compost, after which they are watered with water and bacterial preparations.
After the snow melts, the compost is raked and after the soil has warmed up, the bushes prepared for transplanting are planted.
Cabbage
Cabbage is very demanding on the quality and nutritional value of the soil, so mulching should not be a one-time action, but a system, because only this approach will allow you to get large, healthy heads of cabbage.
Proper soil preparation begins in the fall, immediately after harvesting, and is planting green manure - legumes, clover and others - followed by trampling them down and mulching with compost mixture.
If you use only partially rotted grass to create a mulch layer, after 3–5 years the soil will become poorer, and the cabbage will have to be moved to another area. If, in addition to grass, you use manure and other components, then you will have to transfer the cabbage to a new plot in 8–10 years.
Before laying mulch It is advisable to loosen the area using a Fokin flat cutter or any other suitable tool that gently and shallowly loosens the soil.
Immediately after this, the area is mulched with partially rotted complex compost, and in warm regions you can even use fresh/dry lawn grass or forbs, a layer thickness of 3–7 cm.
To accelerate decomposition of plant material water generously with water and bacterial preparations.
In the spring, immediately after the snow melts, the remaining mulch is raked to the side, forming an empty space the size of the future hole or hole, and the soil is slightly loosened.
If cabbage is planted with seeds, then the autumn mulching material is returned to its place after the appearance of several true leaves at least the size of a child’s palm.
If seedlings are planted, then the autumn mulching material is returned to its place immediately after the first watering, that is, on the same evening when the seedlings were planted.
The next mulching is carried out after the appearance of the fruit ovary. When the head of cabbage reaches the size of a child's head, you can lay another layer of mulching material, using almost completely rotted complex compost for this.
Raspberries
Raspberries are a very unpretentious and tenacious plant that is much less afraid of summer heat than most garden crops. In addition, replanting a raspberry tree to a new location is a rather complex and time-consuming process, so mulching should be part of the overall plant and soil care system.
In early spring, when the snow melts, space around the trunk is cleared of winter mulch, so that the roots warm up faster.
The soil is carefully loosened, trying not to go deeper than 2–5 cm, so as not to damage the roots located near the surface.
After the first leaves appear, the autumn material is returned to its place and a new layer of mulch is immediately laid, which can be used as partially rotted compost from lawn grass or forbs.
The second mulching is carried out at the beginning of summer, before the onset of intense heat, and in this case it is better to use partially rotted compost with any number of components.
The third mulching is carried out after harvesting, on remontant varieties after the first harvest, and then another after the second harvest.
Exactly the third application of mulch material is the most important, because the effectiveness of the soil regeneration process will depend on it.
Therefore, for final mulching, partially or 2/3 rotted compost with the maximum number of components is used, including:
- manure or droppings;
- ash or lime;
- kitchen vegetable waste.
Also the ground needs to be loosened: if you have a Fokina flat cutter, then it is loosened before adding mulching material, but if you have a manual cultivator, then it is loosened after laying the new mulch, because this way it will mix better with the soil.
Potato
The first time grass mulch is applied to the beds immediately after planting seed potatoes, the thickness of the layer, as in the photo, above the holes is 1-2 cm, and above the surrounding area - 4-6 cm.
For this operation only partially rotted compost is needed.
The second mulching is carried out after the first or second hilling, and the same material is used.
The third time they mulch after the green manure has ripened, and you can take either fresh lawn grass or forbs (in this case, after watering, you will need to treat the mulch layer with bacterial preparations), or partially rotted compost.
This procedure for caring for potatoes allows you to plant this plant in one place without loss of yield for 5–8 years.
Peppers
These crops are mulched 2 times - first time in May-June, when the daytime air temperature exceeds 20 degrees and the soil warms up, and the second - after harvesting and ripening of green manure.
In greenhouses, where it is possible to obtain 2-3 crops per season, mulch is applied for the first time after the soil has warmed up, and then mulched immediately after planting the pepper seedlings. After the last harvest is harvested, green manure is planted, then trampled down and covered with a new layer of mulch.
Partially or 2/3 rotted complex compost is used as mulch, which is used after planting seedlings, and if it is not available, dried last year's hay (including forbs) or straw will do.
in autumn you can also use partially rotted compost or dried vegetation, however, in the latter case, it is necessary to water it with bacterial preparations to speed up decay.
In the spring, if not all the mulch rots, you need to rake it in the places of future holes so that the soil warms up, and after it warms up, first level the old material, then pour in new material.
Fruit trees and bushes
Fruit trees and bushes are mulched three times per season:
- after the soil warms up;
- during the summer heat;
- after fruiting.
Young plants, which have not yet had time to form thick, strong bark, as well as any shrubs, sprinkled only partially or 2/3 with rotted compost.
Trees that are 5 or more years old can be sprinkled with any dry grass or partially rotted compost. The optimal layer thickness is 5–8 cm.
The first and third mulching must be done immediately after loosening the soil under trees and bushes, which mixes the rotted remains of the previous layer with the soil.
Roses
Methodology mulching roses very different from that accepted for other plants, because it is unacceptable for them to increase the soil level, because this will spoil the appearance of the flowerbed or lawn.
Each mulching with grass always begins by loosening the soil using a special device - a Fokin flat cutter or a hand cultivator - to mix some of the rotted organic matter with the soil.
- carefully collect and remove the remaining organic matter from the previous application, which can be sent to compost or applied to other plants;
- if necessary, remove the top layer of soil to ensure the same level throughout the entire area, then dig a small hole and fill the top layer of soil there;
- remove all emerging weeds;
- lay partially rotted compost or dry grass, including forbs, around the plant; if dry straw is used, then it is necessary to retreat 1–3 cm from the trunk.
The mulch layer is laid either throughout the lawn or flowerbed, or just around roses, optimal layer thickness 7–10 cm.
The first mulching is carried out in the spring, after the soil has warmed up (mid-late May), the second - a month after the leaves have fallen. In addition to mulching with grass, it is advisable to use green manure.
The benefits and harms of covering crops with lawn grass
Freshly cut vegetation poses a serious threat to cultivated plants, because bacteria in it actively secrete enzymes that break down complex organic substances.
Therefore, covering cultivated plants with fresh lawn or any other grass will cause a lot of harm.
However, if she in the fall, lay out on an area intended for planting cultivated plants next year, then it will bring a lot of benefits. After all, such organic matter will attract worms and increase the efficiency of the soil regeneration process.
If you cover cultivated plants with partially or completely rotted compost from lawn grass, they will develop in much more comfortable conditions, since such grass will not only effectively perform the functions of mulch, but will also serve as a good complex fertilizer.
Pros and cons of "hot grass"
There are many videos on YouTube dedicated to the technique called “hot grass” or “active mulch”, developed by Natalya Smorchkova. This method is called almost the best means for mulching any plants.
That is, they gave traditional compost a new name, but did not say the main thing - “hot grass” is not suitable for mulching, because bacteria do not have time to complete even the first stage of processing organic matter, so it contains a lot of enzymes that are dangerous to plants.
In order for “hot grass” to become suitable for mulching, it must first cool down, that is, the bacteria must complete the hydrolysis of organic matter and proceed to the acid-forming stage, and the content of dangerous enzymes that break down organic matter must decrease to a safe level.
Besides, nutritional value"hot grass" noticeably lower than multicomponent compost, which is more balanced in its composition.
Also, supporters of the use of “hot grass” claim that any vegetation can be used to make it, including weeds and diseased grasses, but this leads to serious problems.
Video on the topic
We have prepared several videos that will help you better understand the issue of mulching with “hot” grass. After weighing the pros and cons, you can determine the pros and cons and understand whether it is worth using this method in your garden.
From the following video you can find out how its author mulched peppers in his garden using “hot grass”:
Conclusion
Proper mulching with grass has a positive effect on the condition of cultivated plants, due to which they produce more abundant harvests.
Therefore it is one of the most effective agricultural techniques, which not only has a beneficial effect on the soil and crops, but also helps get rid of constantly growing grass, including weeds.
In this article we talked about:
- how to prepare such mulch;
- Is it possible to cover tomatoes, cucumbers and other plants with grass, put it on potato beds, as well as under fruit trees and bushes;
- what can be mulched with freshly cut lawn grass in open ground, and can it be used in greenhouses;
- how to properly mulch certain crops with grass.
We also showed what processes occur during this process. With this information, you can choose the right mulching method in your garden.
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